Words and Photographs by J.M. Maccoy
What thoughts come to mind when you say "Moscow"?
Events in the 20th Century have
left Moscow with the impression of a having a cold, intimidating atmosphere, trapped behind the iron curtain.
Times have changed though, and Moscow is enjoying a revival as an easy-going city, full of cultural and sensual delights.
Forget the 20th Century with the Stalinist purges and KGB atrocities - think 19th Century and enjoy the fabulous art,
music, restaurants and architecture.
Moscow has undergone a facelift recently; buildings have been scrubbed, shop windows stocked and trees have been planted. Indeed, in some parts of the city it is hard to tell that you are in Russia - this could be any historic European city.
There are many kremlins in Russia, but perhaps the most famous is the Moscow
Kremlin. This is an absolute gem of Russian architecture that has evolved through the centuries.
Standing on the Borovitsky Hill, on the left-hand bank of the Moskva River, the Kremlin was originally a small settlement
of merchants and artisans, with a circular wall around it. As time passed, more buildings sprang up inside the kremlin
walls, and the fortifications became stronger. The present day kremlin consists of an ensemble of wonderful palaces
and cathedrals which house a fantastic collection of arts (including Fabergé eggs). There is even the largest cannon
in the world, which has never been fired, as well as the largest bell (which cracked before it could ever strike a note).
The kremlin is also the seat of the Russian parliament - and as such, there is tight security in place. Bags have to be checked into a room before entry, and there are soldiers on all gates. Don't be intimidated though - the sights of this fortress are well worth seeing and there are regular guided tours in all the main languages.
Outside the Kremlin is the Alexander Gardens with its fountains and benches that were laid along the western side of
the Kremlin wall in 1820-23. In these gardens, next to the Kremlin wall and guarded by soldiers, is the Tomb of the
Unknown Soldier. The Eternal Flame keeps burning here in memory of those who fell in the Great Patriotic War of 1941-45,
lighting up the inscription "Your name is unknown, your feat is immortal."
There are many shopping malls in this area, one is underneath the Alexander Gardens - and it is air conditioned,
providing respite from the hot Moscow sun. Don't think of purpose built souless buildings either - all these structures
are ornate and blend perfectly with the historic surroundings. On the bottom level of this centre is a food court with
choices of cuisine ranging from pizza, fried chicken & burgers to traditional Russian fayre and ice-cream parlours! Prices
are very reasonable, with a large fizzy drink, slice of pizza and large portion of salad costing roughly £2 (as at June 2000).
TGI Fridays and McDonalds are not too far away either - but bear in mind that the American chains can often charge in US$
and can therefore work out as expensive as western prices.
Red Square lies along another of the Kremlin walls, and again there are many beautiful bulidings here. The Cathedral of
St. Vasily the Blessed (St. Basil's) towers high into Moscow's skyline. If you stand in front of the cathedral, with the Kremlin
to the left, you have the GUM department store to the right. Its three long arcaded passageways cover an area of nearly
25,000 metres. This is an airy extravaganza of glass and iron which was bulit in the 1890s. With fountains and ornate decor,
this provides a stunning setting to buy items ranging from the top western cosmetics and goods to fake icons and postcards.
At the far end of Red Square, opposite the Cathedral of St. Vasily the Blessed, stands a distinctive red brick building which houses the State Museum, designed and built in the traditions of 17th century Russian architecture.
Along the Kremlin wall in Red Square is the tomb of Lenin. It is open and you can file past the waxy corpse in
grotesque silence, before passing out into the garden of remembrance where all the Russian & Soviet leaders have been
laid to rest. You can see Stalin, Breshnev, Andropov & the other Soviet leaders' tombstones behind Lenin's tomb.
Other areas of Moscow house a treasure trove of delights - the Bolshoi Ballet, Gorky Park, and countless art galleries
- you can even go for a boat trip along the Moskva River.
But beware if you go to the circus - whilst you will
gasp with delight at the feats of the acrobats and trapeze artistes, you could find yourself gasping in horror at the
sight of the dancing bears on roller skates & motor bikes (no I'm not joking).
No trip to this city would be complete without going on the Metro. All the underground stations are ornately decorated
and spotlessly clean. Each station is different and there are many tableaus depicting scenes from the revolution.
British Airways flies direct to Moscow twice daily, but you do need a visa and you will have to pre-book your
accomodation in order to get one.
The Rossiya Hotel (left) is ideally situated for Red
Square & the Kremlin - it was built
in the late 1950s and has four twelve storey buildings with an open inner courtyard, forming a rectangle. The view
from the top of the hotel over Moscow & the Kremlin is stunning. The hotel facilities are very good, with a concert
hall, swimming pool, restaurants, numerous cafes & bars, post office, telephone exchange and much more. Although, be
aware that wherever you stay in Moscow, if you are a lone male, you could receive late night phone calls from ladies
offering "other" facilities!!!!!!
There are good communciation facilities in Moscow, with lots of cash machines, banks and foreign exchanges.
Post boxes are blue in colour, and there are many telephones. UK mobile
phones do allow roaming in Russia and there are many networks to log onto.
For more information on Moscow, where else to go but Travellers-Friend.com.
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